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A Shelter Island getawayBY KAREN JONESSPECIAL TO NEWSDAY The moment you set foot on Shelter Island one thing is clear: You are definitely not in the Hamptons. Nestled between the North and South forks of Long Island's East End, Shelter Island's pristine beaches, lush woodlands and winding country roads offer a tranquil respite from the frenetic summer pace usually found in the bigger-name resorts nearby. Called "Manhansack-aha-quash-awamock," or "island sheltered by islands" by the Manhanset Indians, Shelter Island was purchased from the Manhanset in 1651 by English sugar merchants from Barbados, according to the Shelter Island Historical Society. During its ensuing 350-plus years, Shelter Island has been a farming and fishing community as well as summer getaway. It has also been a beacon for the very wealthy, whose mansions grace its abundant shorelines. Today, Shelter Island plays host to a large summer community (the population swells from 2,500 to 8,000 during the season) while providing unique vacation opportunities for those who like the volume turned down, not up. I have been visiting Shelter Island for more than 20 years and will say that here you are never far from a spectacular water view and the opportunity to really relax. If summer vacations must include a dizzying array of activities and nightlife, this is not your destination. However, if you are curious about exploring what one resident calls, "the last frontier on Long Island," it may be a trip well spent. All aboard The North Ferry from Greenport or the South Ferry from North Haven will put you and your car on the island in less than 10 minutes. As the ferry approaches the island, the lovely Victorian homes that dot the northern shoreline or the unspoiled wilderness that surrounds the southern signal your entree into an eclectic blend of Old World charm and 21st century amenities. There are no traffic lights or movie theaters, but you can stroll through a SoHo-style art gallery, sip homemade sangria at a bistro, browse for antiques and much more. The island also offers a full range of restaurant choices, from pub grub to fine dining. Accommodations run the gamut, from quintessential country B&Bs to historic inns and hotels. The island's only nod to Hamptons' chic is Sunset Beach, a waterfront hotel with open air bistro-bar and trendy tropical decor. Here, the walk from beach to Bellini is less than 30 seconds. You can rent a kayak or take a guided tour from Shelter Island Kayak Tours, which I highly recommend. Call ahead for reservations and enjoy some of the best paddling in this part of the country. There is also a public golf course, affectionately known as Goat Hill, while Hampshire Farms Stables offers visitors private horseback lessons and pony rides on its 85-acre spread. A one-day excursion is certainly possible, particularly since Route 114 transverses the island from the North to the South Ferry in a mere 41/2 miles, but to fully appreciate Shelter Island, try to spend a few days. Begin to relax Decompression from real life begins on the ferry. If you arrive on the north side of the island, the ferry will place you right onto Route 114 and in historic Shelter Island Heights. A quaint hub of shops and eateries, the Heights is where you can peruse the bait and tackle shop for fishing gear, order out a gourmet sandwich from the Island Food Centre or stop at local favorite The Dory, for a burger on its waterfront patio. While in the Heights, make sure you pick up a free Shelter Island map. It is much easier to get around with one. Renting a bicycle from Piccozzi's Bike Shop is an excellent way to enjoy the sights, though be prepared for hills, particularly on the north side. The diverse geography is a continual surprise -- a forested road could open onto a lush meadow or the descent down a steep hill might lead straight to a sheltered harbor. After leaving the Heights and heading south, make a left onto Winthrop Road and follow the signs for the Village of Dering Harbor. There you'll be treated to a magnificent assemblage of Gold Coast-style waterfront mansions. After the Dering Harbor loop, head east on Cobbets Lane to Little and Big Ram islands for some breath-taking views of Coecles Harbor, while riding along tiny causeways within a stone's throw of the ocean on either side. Traveling the rolling hills south of the Ram islands, you'll pass horse farms, churches and every manner of abode from manor house to beach cottage. If gardening is a passion, stop by Shelter Island Gardens to see some of the local nursery offerings or enjoy a round of miniature golf and an ice cream cone with the kids at Whale's Tail, corner of Manwaring and Ram Island roads. Mashomack Preserve No visit to Shelter Island is complete without an excursion to the 2,040-acre Mashomack Preserve, saved from development when purchased by The Nature Conservancy 26 years ago. Located off 114, about a half-mile from the South Ferry, Mashomack encompasses the entire southeastern corner of the island. All are welcome at the Visitor Center, where bird feeders attract a number of colorful winged species. You can also walk one of the preserve's four trails. What makes Mashomack unique, said Mike Laspia, preserve director, is its "assemblage of habitats." These include tidal and freshwater wetlands, salt marsh, 10 miles of natural shoreline, oak forest and grasslands, each home to many different species such as foxes, raccoons, osprey, harbor seals and more. Deer -- and deer ticks -- are also found in the preserve and throughout the island. "If you stay on the trails and don't get into the grass or brush, you should have very few encounters with ticks," Laspia said, adding that workers keep the trails mowed and covered with wood chips. The osprey, a large raptor with a 5-foot wingspan, is a particular favorite of islanders. The birds, which live about 20 years, return to the same nest every year to raise two to three chicks. Their distinctive nests, built high atop long wooden poles, can be spotted throughout the island. Please note, proper osprey etiquette is to observe but do not disturb. The arts, and history, too Art aficionados can visit the Boltax Gallery on 114, which is also called Ferry Road, where curator Karen Boltax, a former Manhattanite, shows offerings from local and international artists. "Shelter Island allows you to do nothing and enjoy it," observed Boltax. "It's a beautiful place that has an eclectic and lovely chemistry of people and enormous amount of diversity." Also plan a stop at Hap's Ironworks, featuring the distinctive metal sculptures of Hap Bowditch Jr., whose family has been on the island for more than 300 years. For those curious about island history, the Shelter Island Historical Society is open Fridays and weekends at Havens House, a restored 1743 farmhouse where visitors can get a taste of what life was like from the mid 1700s to early 1900s. Though change is inevitable, Shelter Island has, to date, been shielded from the rampant development and commercialism occurring elsewhere on Long Island -- partly because of its inaccessibility, and partly because the natives like it that way just fine. 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