If you go...

Karen Jones

GETTING THERE. From the Long Island Expressway, take Exit 73 to Route 58 then Route 25 into Greenport. Follow the signs for Route 114 and the Shelter Island ferry. From the Southern State Parkway, take Exit 44 to Route 27 (Sunrise Highway) to Route 114 in East Hampton, north through Sag Harbor and North Haven and follow signs for the ferry. If taking the Long Island Rail Road (www.mta.nyc.ny.us /lirr/), get off at the Greenport station. Or The Hampton Jitney's North Fork line (631-283-4600, www.hamptonjitney.com) will drop you near the North Ferry. One way from the city is $18, round-trip, $35. Call ahead for reservations.

FERRIES. From Greenport, the North Ferry Co. (631- 749-0139) charges $9 a car one way and $13 for same-day round-trip. Passengers are $1 extra. Boats run continuously 6 a.m. to midnight during summer. Be prepared to wait up to a half-hour in line, possibly longer, during peak weekend hours. From North Haven, South Ferry Co. (631-749-1200), charges $10 a car one way and $12 for same-day round-trip. Boats run from 5:40 a.m. to 1:45 a.m. in season.

PRACTICALITIES. Shelter Island beaches are open to the public, but you need a permit to park, so day-trippers will not find it easy to take a swim. Parking permits can be purchased at the Town Hall (631-749-1166) for $35 a week or $75 monthly. Waterfront hotels, such as Sunset Beach and the Ram's Head Inn, provide beach access for guests. You cannot rent a motor boat or sailboat on the island, so if boating is a must, call to confirm what hotels offer these and other facilities.

WHERE TO STAY. The Ram's Head Inn (631-749- 0811, www.shelterislandinns.com) is a welcoming, well-appointed Colonial-style inn with its own beach overlooking Coecles Harbor. It features a first-class restaurant, tennis courts, plenty of water-sports equipment and a fitness center. Doubles with private bath start at $250 a night weekends and $175 weekdays.


The Chequit Inn (631-749- 0018, www.shelterisland inns.com), in Shelter Island Heights, was built in 1872. It has 35 rooms and an indoor/outdoor bistro with water view. Guests can use all facilities at the Ram's Head Inn. Doubles from $195 weekend nights, $150 for weekday.


Sunset Beach (631-749-2001, www.sunsetbeachli.com), trendy without attitude, is on Crescent Beach. The 20 rooms have private sundecks and Wi-Fi, and land and water sports options are offered. The beach bistro and bar are hard to beat. From $375 weekend nights, $250 weekdays.


Belle Crest Inn & Aimee's Cottage (631-749-2041, www.bellecrestinn.com) is an affordable Victorian B&B near Shelter Island Heights. It features canopy beds, a dining room with a fireplace and a terrace. Rates, which include a country breakfast, start at $175 a night weekends, $125 weekdays.

Two-week and monthly rentals are easier to find than one-week rentals. Call Shelter Island Realty, 631-749- 1014, or Allan Schneider Associates, 631-749-4000.

WHERE TO EAT. Most hotels and inns have restaurants, but if you venture out, you'll find plenty of choices. Vine Street Café, Route 114 and Vine Street, 631-749-3210, www.vinestreetcafe.com. Classy American bistro with upscale fare. Dinner entrees $20-$33. Reservations.
Café 27, 24 N. Ferry Rd. (Route 114), 631-749-2727, www.cafe27.com. Continental dining featuring local and regional specialties in a cozy Victorian home. Dinner entrees: $19-$24. Reservations.
Planet Bliss, 23 N. Ferry Rd. (Route 114), 631-749-0053, www.planet-bliss.com. A "world bistro" featuring a culturally diverse menu set in warm Caribbean decor. The lounge, with its homemade sangria, is a local gathering spot. Dinner and brunch. Dinner entrees: $12-$21.
The Dory, at "the Bridge" in the Heights, 631-749-4300. Casual American dining with everything from burgers to fresh local seafood. Patio with water view. Lunch and dinner. Dinner entrees: $10-$23.
Bob's Fishmarket & Restaurant, 87 N. Ferry Rd. (Route 114), 631-749-0830. Casual dining featuring fresh local seafood. Dinner entrees: $13-$17. Reservations suggested on weekends. Lunch is served on the patio clam bar.

ATTRACTIONS. Mashomack Preserve, South Ferry Road (Route 114), 631-749-1001. Owned by The Nature Conservancy, the 2,040-acre preserve has four hiking trails. Open 9 a.m.-5 p.m. daily July and August, closed Tuesdays in June.

Piccozzi's Bike Shop, The Heights, 631-749-0045. Bicycle sales, rentals.
Shelter Island Kayak Tours, Route 114 at Duvall's Road, 631-749-1990. Guided kayak tours, rentals. Reserve.
Shelter Island Country Club (Goat Hill), 631-749-0416. Nine-hole course, open to the public.
Shelter Island Whale's Tail, corner of Manhanset and Ram Island roads, 631-749-1839. Miniature golf course, 18 holes, plus ice cream parlor.
Boltax Gallery, 21 N. Ferry Rd. (Route 114), 631-749-4062. Shows local and international artists.
Hap's Ironworks, 3 S. Midway, 631-749-0200. Distinctive metal sculptures by local artist Hap Bowditch.
Shelter Island Historical Society Havens House, South Ferry Road, 631-749-0025. Restored 1743 farm house with period rooms and gift shop. Open 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Friday through Sunday.
Hampshire Farms Riding Stable, 3 Bowditch Rd., 631-749-0156. Riding lessons and pony rides available. Shelter Island Gardens, 29 St. Mary's Rd., 631-749-1700. Nursery and gift shop.
Island Food Centre, Bridge Street in the Heights, 631-749-3558. Large selection of groceries, deli.
Perlman Music Program, 73 Shore Rd., 631-749-0740, www.perlmanmu sicprogram.org. Concerts by students of string instruments attending camp co-chaired by Yitzhak Perlman.

INFO. Shelter Island Chamber of Commerce, www.shelter-island.net. --

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